Have you ever wanted to sell everything you own and just "take off?" Travel the country's back roads, paddle down a meandering stream, experience breath-taking mountain views, walk among 100-year old trees, and just marvel at America's beauty? That is the dream that my partner, Betsy, and I decided to make a reality. This blog describes our adventure. The food we eat, people we meet, sights we see, and the enjoyment we find in traveling.

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Lexington, Kentucky–Horse Capital of the World

Lexington lies comfortably in the heart of the Kentucky Bluegrass Region and has undisputedly captured the title 086of “Horse Capital of the World.”  The famed horse industry has greatly influenced Lexington's culture and scenic beauty.  Add in the University of Kentucky and Transylvania University and you get a college town vibe that adds a diverse culture and energy.  Throw in bourbon distilleries and craft brewpubs in the midst of historic neighborhoods and you have one interesting city in the heart of the Bluegrass. 

There is no mistaking you are in horse country.  Here you will find nearly 75 horse farms surrounding downtown Lexington within Fayette County.  Roads are named after champions like Man O’ War and gravesites of famous horses are revered.  Farms like Calumet, Donamire, and Claiborne produce champions in the horse racing industry with names that linger on such as Secretariat, Seattle Slew, and Man O’ War. 

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If you are wondering why there are so many horse farms in this area, the answer lies in the water.  That same limestone filtered water that makes Kentucky bourbon so good also is calcium rich and extremely beneficial to building strong bones and durability in the horses that eat the grass and drink the water. 

When traveling thru Lexington in an RV the place to stay is the Kentucky Horse Park.  Set amongst 1,200 rolling acres here you will find all things horse.  The state sponsored Kentucky Horse Park offers plenty to do for a few days.  There are horse demonstrations, shows, carriage and horseback rides, two museums, educational programs, and world class horse events and shows.  One of the most popular attractions at the Horse Park is the Hall of Champions where visitors get an up-close and personal introduction to famous racehorses.  We got to meet Go For Gin (the 1994 Kentucky Derby Winner who finished second in the Preakness and Belmont that same year) and Mr. Muscleman (the richest Standardbred trotter in history having earned over $4 million dollars.

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A trip to horse country would not be complete without going to the racetrack.  Keenland Race Course is a registered National Historic Landmark known as much for its genteel setting and atmosphere as for its rich horse racing tradition.  We decided to get up early for breakfast at the Track Kitchen where large portions are the norm and you eat amongst jockeys, trainers, owners, and tourists like us.  Post time might not be until one o’clock but the track comes alive early with horses warming up in the morning routine.  You may recognize Keenland if you have ever watched the movies Seabiscuit, Dreamer and Secretariat which were all filmed at Keenland.

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One of the most popular things for tourists to do is take a van (or bus tour) of famous horse farms.  The three-hour tour took us through the mega farms with recognizable names like Calumet and Claiborne to the smaller low key farms where we could pet foals and hopeful Derby winners. 

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Now that we are totally enamored with horse country and Betsy (a horse woman who is partial to Arabians - but we won’t tell the thoroughbreds) and I were having a tough time leaving.  So we didn’t.  More from the bluegrass to come.



Thursday, April 23, 2015

The Kentucky Bourbon Trail

We just finished our trip along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail and have tasted, smelled, and learned so much about bourbon.  340First of all, not all bourbon comes from Kentucky  . . . but about 95% does . . . which explains why there are more whiskey barrels in Kentucky than humans.  Bourbon was declared a “distinctive product of the United States” by Congress in 1964 thus becoming our national Spirit.  (Congress must not have had much to do that year!)  Not all whiskey is bourbon, but all bourbon is whiskey and it must be produced in the United States.  Bourbon making is regulated by law so there are common components and guidelines but there are so many factors in production that set each distiller’s product apart.

There are officially nine distilleries along the trail but plenty more large and small distilleries scattered throughout Kentucky that are worth a visit.  All distilleries on the trail offer guided tours and talk about their history and bourbon making process which is followed by a tasting.  While you might think nine tours are going to get repetitious, they did not and we learned something new on every one.

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 The Kentucky Bourbon Trail member distilleries are (pictured in order): Maker’s Mark, Jim Beam, Bulleit, Evan Williams, Town Branch, Woodford Reserve, Wild Turkey, Heaven Hill, and Four Roses (forgot to take a picture).

Why did bourbon originate in the Bluegrass State?  The most influential reason is the natural limestone rock formations that filter out iron from the free flowing water as it percolates through its layers.  The second reason is corn.  Early on Kentucky settlers realized they had a surplus of corn and transporting raw goods was more difficult than the finished product.  Rather than letting the corn rot, entrepreneur gentlemen decided to put their whiskey making skills brought over from Europe to good use.  584Whiskey was shipped in oak barrels down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers to New Orleans.  The long trip gave the whiskey time to age and developed its flavor.  The barrels were stamped with their origin which was Bourbon County, Kentucky.  As the demand for the tasty spirit grew, people requested more “bourbon whiskey” and so the name began.

Bourbon starts with a “mash bill” which is essentially the master distillers’ recipe.  By law, bourbon must contain at least 51% corn but the rest of the ingredients – rye, barley, wheat and yeast – is up to the distiller.  Raw ingredients are ground through a mill (to help break down the starches) and limestone filtered water is added to the mix which is called “mash.”  Most distillers add mash from the previous distillation (called “backset”) to ensure consistency with the yeast (this mixture is referred to as sour mash).  Some distillers use the traditional cypress open vats while others choose stainless steel.

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When yeast is added the mash begins fermentation which is the yeast converting sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide.  The mixture must be kept at the perfect temperature as to not kill the yeast but keep them alive so they can continue working their fermenting magic.  To achieve the appropriate temperature, coils circulating cold water line the inside of the fermentation tanks.

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Now the mixture is known as “distillers beer” and has an oat mealy consistency and beer smell.  The mixture gets pumped to a distiller (or “still”) where the heat is cranked so the alcohol can vaporize up through the still.  Once it reaches the top, it cools to a clear 125-proof liquid known as low wine.  The low wine goes through another distillation process where it comes out a potent paint thinner strength of 135 proof.  And this high potent clear liquid is what they call “white dog.”  Bourbon law states that bourbon can not enter the barrel higher than 125 proof so it must be diluted.

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Now it is time for bourbon to enter the barrels.  By law, bourbon must be put into new, charred oak barrels.  The purpose of charring is to 251acaramelize the sugars naturally occurring in the wood so the bourbon will be infused with this sweetness as it moves in and out of the wood while aging.  Charring also gives bourbon its amber color.  Historically, bourbon was shipped in previously used barrels which did not fair well for the whiskey if the barrel was previously used to ship something like fish.  But by charring the barrel, they could sterilize it and remove nasty flavors.  By accident they discovered that charring also imparted a nice flavor and color by the time it reached New Orleans.

Exactly what type of oak and the level of char vary among distillers.  Is it a quick 15 second char or a longer one that lasts nearly a minute?  Or is the barrel slowly toasted and then charred as in the case of Woodford Reserve?  As long as it is “charred” it doesn’t matter.Historically, distillers had their own cooperages but that has become cost prohibitive today and most buy their barrels from a manufacturer. 

Once the white dog is placed in the barrels, they are capped with a “bung” and sent to the rick house where they will relax with other thousands of barrels until they are well aged.  By law, bourbon must remain in the barrel for four years to be called Straight Kentucky Bourbon.  Some distillers (Woodford Reserve) opt to age their bourbon longer (7-8 years) which will impart a different flavor than those with a shorter aging time.  Bourbon moves in and out of the wood over time and as the weather changes from the hot, humid summers to cold winters. 

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Bungs seal the barrel and keep the bourbon in but the trick is rolling them into place with the bung facing up so there is no leakage.

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Rick houses are built of heavy wood frames with multiple floors.  Each floor typically holds three barrels high.

Most rick houses have open windows so the weather can play its part and illuminate the inside of these dark buildings.  Some distillers that have very tall rick houses (like the eight-story ones at Jim Beam) will move barrels from the top to the bottom midway through the aging in order to ensure consistency. 

085626246b329Jim Beam, Woodford Reserve, Bulleit, and Willett all have different styles of rick houses ranging from metal to stone.


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One thing you notice in bourbon country are the many rick houses that dot the landscape.

While visiting Barton 1792 (which is not officially on the trail) a representative just finished a barrel select tasting and offered to let us help pull a sample with a “whiskey thief.”  When someone wants to buy an entire barrel the master distiller selects a number of barrels for them to taste before deciding which one they want.  They were buying an entire barrel and the master distiller gave them five to chose from. 

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When finished aging, barrels are dumped, filtered and ready for bottling.  Depending on the size of the distillery you will either see a very automated line or a much more hands on line where the labels are being applied by hand. 

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Since barrels can only be used once in the bourbon making process what happens to the millions of empty barrels?  Many are shipped to Europe and Canada to age scotch and whiskey.  A new popular trend is to age beer in them and call it bourbon barrel ale.

After all is said and done (I meant drank) . . .  we realized there are so many flavors and sensations that come from bourbon and personal preferences will vary.  Do you like a rye bourbon with peppery, harsher notes or a wheated, high corn bourbon for its sweetness.  How do you like your finish?  Smooth and slow or with a burn that slides all the way down and lingers?  We amassed a little taste test of our own on the picnic table for a recap of our experience and to compare products.  Betsy still likes the sweeter wheated Maker’s Mark with a high corn content and I (who am usually not a bourbon drinker) like the smooth drinking Basil Hayden’s (from Jim Beam Distillery).  And we both like the punch that Booker’s provided (also a Beam product).  There is only so much room in the RV for bourbon so we settled on our favorites and bought a few.

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If you are wondering what happened to bourbon during prohibition, then look closely at this bottle’s label.

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That’s right, with a doctor's prescription you could get bourbon for medicinal purposes.  Bet there were a lot of people sick back then!  Who wouldn’t be sick for a 16-year old bourbon and it promises no headache in the morning?  Most distilleries went out of business but a few survived and many others came on-line later.  Today the American bourbon industry is thriving and is exported worldwide with a serious infatuation by Asian countries – so much so that they are buying distilleries.

Even if you are not a bourbon drinker, the tours and history are fascinating.  Each one was a little different and gave us new knowledge about how the product is made.  We have a whole new appreciation for this unique American icon.